THE MAGDALEN CHAPEL
We are now standing opposite The Magdalen Chapel, a structure dating back to the 16th century that most passersby fail to notice. That’s hardly surprising as it's tucked among the bars, nightclubs, and hostels that line the Cowgate - a far cry from the more mercantile world to which it once belonged .
By the sixteenth century, many of Edinburgh’s markets had relocated here to the Cowgate from the High Street, transforming this area into a busy centre of trade and commerce. It was this energy that attracted an ambitious mercantile couple: Jonet Rhynd and Michael McQueen.
In the 1530s, Michael, approaching old age, had salvation on his mind. He set aside £700 Scots for the construction of a chapel but he died before the project could begin. It was his widow, Jonet, who brought the vision to life.
Despite the dominant narrative, which downplays Jonet’s role, she did far more than simply carry out her husband’s wishes. She reshaped the project according to her own ambitions. She invested an additional £2,000 Scots and expanded it to include a hospital for a chaplain and seven poor men, known as bedesmen.
The chapel was built between 1541 and 1544, the last Roman Catholic church built in Edinburgh before the Reformation. Jonet died in 1553 and was buried inside. Above the door, you can still see the initials “MM” and “IR,” marking both her and her husband, a lasting statement of joint patronage.
If you have the chance to go inside (to arrange a visit, please see below), you’ll find one of its most remarkable features: four stained glass roundels, the only surviving pre-Reformation stained glass in Scotland still in their original location.
And, inside lies Jonet herself.
Her tombstone, the only marked grave in the chapel, was placed in the most prestigious position, just to the south of the altar. For a widow in the sixteenth century, that placement was a powerful act of self-representation: a way of asserting identity, status, and legacy in a world that often overlooked women’s contributions.
But today, unfortunately, that legacy is difficult to see.
Her tombstone lies hidden beneath protective coverings, including a layer of polystyrene and an old carpet. While this has, to an extent, helped preserve the tombstone, it still requires significant restoration, which brings us to the chapel’s survival.
By the mid-20th century, buildings like this were increasingly under threat from redevelopment and it was the work of The Cockburn Association that helped ensure this chapel was not lost. In the 1950s and 60s, the Association led campaigns, raised funds, and brought together key groups to secure its restoration and long-term preservation. Further concerns were raised in 1990 when it publicly raised its grave concerns over the care being taken by the owners of the chapel and a major restoration programme was therefore carried out in 1992-1993.
Perhaps the next chapter of restoration should focus on restoring Jonet's tombstone as it would not only help preserve a rare example of a Scottish medieval woman's tombstone, but would help restore visibility to a woman whose ambition, wealth and determination made this building possible in the first place.
Head to the next stop below.
To arrange a visit to the chapel, text Allan on: 07857 472 394
Sources
(1) Rachel Delman, ‘Always at the Gate? Unlocking Medieval Women’s Stories in Modern-day Edinburgh’, in Janay Nugent, Cathrun Spence, and Mairi Cowan (eds), Gender in Scotland, 1200-1800: Place, Faith and Politics, Edinburgh, 2024.